Day 21 - La Ciotat, The End

Thursday, September 24, 2009

La Ciotat

We have finished!! Almost exactly 1,000 miles across from the the English Channel to the Mediterrean. We did four climbs used frequently in the TDF, and one climb that was harder than any of those (up to Col de Parquetout).

The view from our hotel window. Not to0 bad!

La Ciotat, a former ship building port - now yachting repair port, and minor tourist destination, was the end of our tour. Because it was not a major port, we hoped to avoid congestion and have easy access. It its own way, it was beautiful and very pleasant. It wasn't crowded, and of course, there was great sea food.

Our Yacht is finished! Ready to take us back to the USA.

NOT! There are a lot of big ones here, though.

The four musketeers! If we look a little tired, it is only because we are.

Was it great? Yes, definitely a bucket list hit.

Would I do it again? No. It was a lot of work for everyone. Instead, I would like to select an area, rent an apartment for a month, and do rides out of there.

Where? Probably Provence, but also there are areas in the Alps which would make great hubs (like St. Jean-du-Maurinne), particularly for climbing.

It certainly made me appreciate what France has to offer. We met so many great people where we were. They were very courteous and helpful. We ate wonderful food. In fact, I would say that the most dangerous thing in France is the food. I loved it, and could easily eat too much. I lalso like a lot of their customs. Among others, I especially liked closing the stores for lunch from 1230 to 1430. The language is so beautiful, and in many ways, quite fun to try to speak. Sandy and Susan did very well, and improved quite nicely as we went along.

So, thanks to all my companions - Jim Sproull, Susan Radke Sproull, and most all, Sandy Olsson, for making this happen.

Day 20 - Roussillon to La Ciotat, The Mediterranean

Wednesday, September 23

Roussillon to La Ciotat (131 Km)

This is the last riding day. Finishing our trek south, through the Luberon, was really great. Up through the town of Bonnieux, and down the south side of the small mountain range to the Durance River (hey, I got one!), was also a real pleasure.

Sunrise in the Luberon. Absolutely georgeous.

Next, we rode around the northwest and west side of Aix-en-Provence, which was not too bad. Then the trouble began. We probably spent a total of an hour (in fragments), lost south of Aix.

Pont Julien Bridge

Talk about old! We rode by a bridge that was built in A.D. 25, by the 2nd Roman Legion, and was still being used by farmers until about ten years ago.

The coastal mountain rande south of Aix-en Provence. We did a lot of climbing this last day.

Cross

Crosses are everywhere along the country roads in France. From the most simple, to the very elaborate, every variety can be seen. Most in the north are memorials to soldiers in WWI. After a couple of days, Jim S. said that he could pay for the trip if he had a nickel for every cross he had seen. By the time we reached the last day, though, we figured he could buy a lavender farm with the money. I'm sure we saw close to five hundred crosses.

This is a typical place for lunch. These two ladies had the morning shift and waited on us. They were leaving with their baggettes while we ate. They sell bread, pastries, often pizzas (French style), and sandwiches. I'll bet we each ate 50 jambon and fromage sandwiches, most of which we made at breakfast, and ate while riding.

A small gorge near the coast. To our right is a main road and freeway.

Aix-en-Provence gets very congested, and there are a lot of tight roads squeezed in between the mountains of the coastal range. Typically there will be e a freeway, a main two-lane road, and a small road, all going through the same gorge. Really tricky. It also got very hot, until we got very close to the Mediterranean sea.

Nevertheless it was a wonderful ride, as we knew were accomplishing our goal of RIDING ACROSS FRANCE.

La Ciotat

Well, we made it. Tired but satisfied, we are in La Ciotat, a coastal town that used to be famous for ship building, but is now mostly small marinas with a lot of tourists. I must say, though, that is was not very crowded during our visit.

It wouldn’t proper to neglect to give my wife, Sandy, a big big thanks for driving the support vehicle, and being there to help. If you think navigating these roads and tiny streets on a bike is hard, try doing it in a car. Of course the van had a standard transmission, as that is about all they rent in France. A very tough job well done.

THANKS, SANDY.

Day 19 - Roussillon Rest Day

Tuesday, September 22

Roussillon Rest Day (o km)

This was originally scheduled as a day to ride around the Luberon part of Provence and look at the small hill towns by bike. However, I think we are wearing down - I know I am.

The logistics have been much harder than I thought they would be. The riding is also very hard at times. You have to be so diligent while riding, as the roads are so small with no shoulders. You can rarely drift along day dreaming. The drivers are almost universally courteous, but things are just somewhat tight.

So, instead we took a little car trip, and looked at the scenery and ancient towns. We saw a lot of very unique sights. We also found some great roads to take bike rides on in the future. Enjoy the pictures!

Luberon Countryside

Gordes, one of the most visited towns in Provence.

This hill top town is really spectacular.

The Ochre Cliffs around Roussillon

The building to the right is the resturant of our hotel.

It's pretty easy so see why they call it Roussillon. Every thing is some variation of rose or yellow color.

Day 18 - Vaison la Romaine to Rousillon

Monday, September 21

Vaison-la Romaine, Mont Ventoux to Rousillon (90 Km)

Vaison is a beautiful ancient Roman town, and Rousillon is a charming village. In between stands the Giant of Provence, Mont Ventoux. It truly is a giant and serious - as serious as a heart attack.

Here we go -just short of 5,000 foot of climbing ahead.

In the first 21 kilometers, we had just short of 5,000 feet of climbing. It took us one hour and 50 minutes. Not too fast, huh? The pros do it about 50-75% faster.

WHAT A VIEW!!

We climbed out of Malucene (http://www.climbbybike.com/), where there are numerous sections that are 10-12%. It never gets easier than 6%. It was a beautiful climb with awesome vistas from the higher portions.

A super long downhill into the northern edge of the Luberon followed, topped off by a final climb to Rousillon.

I took these pictures on the way down. I didn't want to stop on the way up. That's my only claim to fame!

Look at those sloggers!

You really get the picture as to how giant it truly is.

Now down in the lavender fields around Sault. I wish they were in bloom.

Finally, down a beautiful ten kilometer gorge into the northern part of the Luberon.

Just as Sandy arrived on the top of Mont Ventoux (about an hour ahead of us), three Mirage jets buzzed the mountain. She swears they weren't more than 100-200 feet above the top.

This was a tough but very gratifying day.

Day 17 - Serres to Vaison-la Romaine

Sunday, September 20

Serres to Vaison la Romaine (81 km)

Today was a lark. We woke to cloudy skies and wet streets. It was raining when I got up at 0430 for the old man’s break. But, the sky in the west looked better at 0720. So, off we went. After a brief fifteen kilomter, gentle, climb, the ride was slowly 1-2 % downhill most of the way to Nyons.

Provencal Mas (farm house)

As we rode along toward Mont Ventoux we noted the change in the architecture.

St. Georges Gorge

For about forty kilometers we passed through the St. Georges gorge along the ? river (I never can seem to get the name of the rivers). It was beautiful and fortunately almost all down hill. After that, we expected to have to climb up over a ridge, but instead, we rode along the ridge to Vaison la Romaine.

Looming on our left was the GIANT, Mont Vantoux. It really is massive, mainly because it is out here by itself. There is nothing else there to compare it with. We are really excited to climb it on Monday. Down its southeast side is Luberon, where we have ridden before, and where our friends have a house.

How villagers got their water in the "Olden Days."

Vaison la Romaine was the medieval city where we stopped for the day. There, we saw another of the many constantly running springs (I guess you would call them that). In most towns they are in a small plazza. I guess that's how villagers got their water in the "olden" days.

We arrived in Vaison la Romaine to find an ant pile tourist town. It took a while, but we finally found our hotel up by the Castile, built in the 1300’s. It was a nightmare for Sandy with the car. She finally had to have the hotel owner drive the car up there. The parking for eight cars really has enough room for 3 ox carts, but they pack them in. It really is unreal. But the room was great, the food wonderful, and view gorgeous. All in all, a fun and easy day.

Tomorrow will be the test.

Day 16 - Alpe du Huez to Serres

Saturday, September 19

Alpe du Huez to Serres (132 km)

Today was a surprise. First, we woke to an overcast sky. We thought we had two Cols to go over, but it turned out we actually had four. It was very hard - we are definitely still in the Alps. I thought they would quickly fade away after Alpe du Huez, but that is not so. It took another fifty miles southwest to get out of them.

The first, up to the Col d' Ornan, was twelve kilometers long, and challenging, but not too steep. It was followed by a twenty kilometer, beautiful downhill where we were able to safely hit high speeds (60 kmph).

Riding toward Col d' Ornan.

One of many wonderful views back up the canyon toward Col d' Ornan.

THEN, we started up to the Col de Parquetout. Its road is not commonly used, and is in fairly poor condition. However, the bad news was that, even though it was short ( 7.5 km), the average grade was 10%, and much of it was around 12% - with one shot over 15%! My knees and right hamstring were talking to me.

The climb to this Col was the steepest I have ever done.

View coming down the Col de Parquetout toward the southwest. We could detect subtle changes in the architecture, flowers, and temperature.

Thank God the next col was not much, and the final Col d' Festre wasn't too hard. Finally, a very long downhill for about 30 kilometers. It was a beautiful, but tough, ride.

The town of Serres was also a surprise. It was a little, podunk, place, and the hotel was nothing to write home about. However, the French food came through again. We found a little resturant about ten feet wide, that had fabulous food. I had a regional specialty - a salad with chicken hearts in it. I followed that with wonderful lamb chops, then topped it off with profiteroles filled with ice cream and covered with cholocate. Again, French food is dangerous. We had a couple of demi bottles of very dry French Rose's that were quite good.

Day 15 - Briancon to Alpe du Huez

Friday, September 18


Briancon to Alpe du Huez (81 km)

In some ways, today was a strange day. We had to backtrack up to the Col du Latauret and then go down to Bourg d’ Oisans to begin the climb up to Alpe du Huez. There are four major tunnels on the way there, and we were advised not to ride through them. We only knew about three, and so we shuttled through those. The traffic stopped about 45 minutes just outside the third for reasons unknown, but a helicopter did come and do something. Then we started pedaling again, only to find another 700 meter curved tunnel - but we made it through.

The view back down the climb.

The climb starts abruptly, as many of you know, and is a 10-12 % grind for the first 2.5 km, then will ease to 8% sometimes, and rarely to 7%. It has 21 switchbacks; there are signs with the names of previous winners of the TDF stages over the years. Lance is up there for the years 2001 and 2004. There are still many cyclists climbing daily, and at the height of summer there are as many as 500-700 a day going up. There is no way to describe it. Check it out on Google earth or http://www.climbbybike.com/.

A pro was selling pics of us tourists climbing. I tried to look good for him.

I have to say, my only claim to fame is that I didn't stop. It took me an one hour and 05 minutes to do 14 km. I was really slow. I really needed a triple chain ring to be able to spin. I couldn't get over 65 rpm with my compact and had to stand quite a bit.

At the Top

We finally made it to the top. There was hardly anyone there. A false arrival sign below by a T shirt shop stopped most people. It was short of the offical route by 1.5 kilometers. At the arrival, there was a lot of room for spectators and equipment. They must expect crowds again soon.

Our Hotel

It was a treat to stay at this great little hotel. Everything inside was in pink. The flowers were wonderful, and she watered them in the evening and morning. The owner was a little old lady that was just delightful, and worked tirelessly the whole time we were there.

Day 14 - Briancon Rest Day

Thursday, September 17

Briancon Rest Day

I had a true rest day in today. Sandy and I explored Briacon, a beautiful and very original mountain town. When the Popes moved to Avignon, it got its real start as part of the trade route between Avignon and the northern Italian towns.

Children running home from school for lunch.

Briancon has a beautiful old cite just above it called Vauban. There we saw very narrow streets with primitive sewage system in center. They aren't really used anymore.

Church at Cite Vauban built in 1706-18

The church was very quiet. It was beautiful but primitive.

Sandy at the gate to Cite Vauban with church behind her.

Birthday dinner desert. HOW ABOUT THAT!!

Today was my birthday, so Sandy took me to dinner. We were served one of the best meals ever. French food is dangerous - you will eat too much!

Day 13 - St Jean de Maurienne to Col du Galibier to Briancon

Wednesday, September 16

St. Jean de Maurienne to Col du Galibier to Briancon (80 km)

It’s the big day. Today we traverse the highest point of the TDF in France, the Col du Galibier, at about 9,000 feet. It's not high by Colorado standards, but high it's for the Alps and we are quite far north. The day dawns cloudy, cool (44 degrees), with a forecast of intermittent rain.

We headed out wearing a lot of clothes and carrying a lot more. Within five kilometers I started heating up, so I began pealing off arm warmers and ear muffs. After ten kilometers the climb up to the Col du Telegraphie begins. It is a tough climb for 14 km, at a 7-11% grade. I never thought I would say 7% was good! After about 18 kilometers, we coast down four kilometers into Valloire, a little ski town and break for hot chocolate.

Valloire

At Valloire, the climb toward the Col begins in earnest. We have climbed about 2,500 feet by this time, and ridden 22 kilometers.

A view up a side canyon on the way up. Looks pretty inhospitable to me!

The view back from whence we came.

We ride up 17 km for a total of 5,000 feet of climbing. We saw spectacular scenery as we rode to around 7,500 feet.

Shepherd

We saw hundreds of sheep on the way up, but the most interesting being was this shepherd. He looked right out of the middle ages! At first I thought he was black, but he was really just weather-beaten and deeply tanned. He did not acknowledge me.

A look down from about 0.5 km from the summit.

As we continue climbing, I think it is not going to be too bad. It's just sprinkling off and on (which is actually welcome, at times). At two km from the top, we hit the snow. It reaches about 250 meters in altitude below us. I gradually had to bundle up more while riding the last two km.

Road with Tunnel

How about this road? You can see the tunnel entrance below and to the right. It was open to cars but the summit road was not. We carry on to the top in the foggy snow storm and get our pictures.

The Summit

Finally, we reach the summit in the fog and snow (and oh yes - the COLD the minute we quite working hard climbing)!

Alas, now the trial begins. We start down but our wet brakes are ineffective without the maximum pressure on them. Within one kilometer down, I am frozen and fear I will have to walk and ride down because my hands and arms are very cold and fatiguing rapidly.

Suddenly, out of the mist appears a bar-restaurant and the support car. Hooray!!! We hurry inside for a hot chocolate. No debate. We take a bump down the mountain. It would have been suicidal to try it on the bike, as the snow went down about four km on this side. It rained all the way down to Briancon.

We climbed a total of 7,000 feet over 30 miles. Sandy and Susan provided superb support.

What an incredible day!!

Day 12 - Chambery to St. Jean-de-Maurienne

Tuesday, September 15

Chambery to St Jean-de Maurienne (82 km)

This was a very strange day. We awoke to clouds, moist and cool, but no rain. Then we got lost in Chambery for 45 minutes, until we finally made it out on a main road (which we weren’t planning to take due to traffic). We found that the traffic wasn’t that bad and - WE WEREN’T LOST! We took a major road all the way to St. Jean-de Maurienne without any problems. GREAT!

Scene as we rode up the valley toward the Haute Alps.

We were actually traveling up a major river valley to the Haute Alps region which has many high Cols and is one of the routes to Italy. It was pretty but congested . There just seem to be so many people in France. You just never get completely away from them. Nevertheless, it was a very smooth and easy ride with a gradual climb after getting out of Chambery.

How about that Castle?! Wonder when that was built?

Our route is open over the Col du Galibier.

St. Jean-de-Maurienne is a delightful, little town and the Hotel St. George where we stayed had a locked garage just for bikes. Cyclists from all over come here to ride up to the various Col’s as the sign shows above. We were the only ones at the hotel on since its near the end of the season.

Our first look at the mountains over which we will climbing.

Looks intimidating!

Day 11 - Bourg-en-Bresse to Chambery

Monday, September 14

Bourg-en-Bresse to Chambery (131 km)

This is the day of our first big climb, the Col de l’Epine, which has been on the TDF several times. The route starts off with low rollers and gradually climbs for the first 100 km. Next it abruptly turns up and over the mountain. The grade was 7-8 % for the first about two km and then went up to 8-12% for the next eight km with most being about 9-10%. There really was no let up until the very end.

The Rhone river on the way into the Alps.

A beautiful valley town stretched along both sides of the river.

Here we go - our first big climb.

On the Way Up

The views from the ride were beautiful and grand. Pictures just can’t capture them.

Top of the Col de l'Epine. A fun climb.

It was a very steep descent into Chambery. We had to use the breaks constantly so I alternated front and back; sometimes I had to use both. The descent was the scary and cold part. This area is the foothills of the Alps, so the top of this mountain was only about 3500 feet high.

Apple Tree

Coming into Chambery I saw a beautiful sight. An apple tree with beautiful apples! I took one and it was great.

Going in to Chambery was a real adventure, because it's a fairly large industrial city. The navigation was tough and the traffic very heavy. Thank heaven for the experience of going across the U.S! It reminded me of Troy, NY.